Flatpack assembly and installation instructions 
Like most things flatpack kitchens,wardrobe or home office flatpack kits appear to complex and difficult to do, but once you begin the process they are not difficult as you first thought. Following a few simple instructions and procedures will make the assembly easy. Installation can be a little more complex but still is within the bounds of the average "do it yourselfer". It certainly helps to start with a well engineered and constructed flatpack made with the ease of installation in mind. Smartpack is the best flatpack product on the market and costs a little more for the quality of the construction techniques and ease of assembly of legs,cams hinges,drawers,handles and benchtop joins.  Serious consideration should be given to these features before buying your flat pack.
Here a few hints in the process which will make the process like a walk in the park.

1.       READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and make a clear area to work in and have the correct tools on hand. A helper is very useful and cuts the job time significatly.  If it is a friend or family it will make the job fun.
2.       Each individual cabinet will be assembled and installed in the same way, with a few exceptions. Where circumstances warrant, this sequence of assembly and installation may vary, but your kit designer will point this out.  
3.       Check that all the cabinets listed on the layout plan or cabinet list are present.  
4.       Unpack and assemble the units one at a time, complete with drawer runners and hinge plates where necessary and place in position as marked on the layout planner. Make sure the cams are facing to the outside of the cabinets. Cover caps are provided for the cams under side of the top units only.  Wall units should be stacked away from the immediate work area. 
5.       Level all the floor cabinets by adjusting the legs. Ensure that the largest space between the floor and the bottom of the cupboards is no more than the kickboard height ( 140mm in Smartpack kits)
6.       Join cabinets together and attach side panels where specified using the cabinet joiners or 28mm screws.  Using longer screws can penetrate the other side of the board and leave an ugly hole exposed. (can be covered with a screw cap)
7.       If a laminate splash back is to be glued to the wall, do this before fixing the bench top or positioning the top units.  
8.       Fix and seal bench top joints and attach to floor units using the 35mm chipboard screws.  
9.       Mark a line on the wall 604mm above the laminate bench top for the position of the wall units.  Use a level.
10.    Place wall units on top of bench top and check measure to ensure correct fit.  
11.    Fix wall units to wall. Use a 5mm masonry bit to drill through the back and into the masonry. Knock in 4 master drives to secure the unit to the wall. For hollow walls you need to screw into the studs or use hollow wall anchors, which can be purchased separately.  
12.    Cut out required holes for sink and cook top. Mark the outline by placing sink or cook top upside down on the bench top and mark the outline. Remove the sink or cook top and mark a line 15mm inside the outline. Drill a 10mm hole inside this line and using a Jigsaw cut out the bench top on the inside line. Use the supplied seals or silicone when fitting the sink or cook top in this space.  
13.    Cut to size and clip on the kickboards (scribe to the floor if necessary). Use silicone to attach the side kickboards and then attach the kickboard cover.  
14.    Hang doors and drawer fronts and fit the handles using a jig if supplied (the Smartpack jig comes with every kit over $1000)  
15.    In the home office where inset doors are optioned. Drill the hinge plate holes using the Smartpack jig.   If at any stage you are experiencing difficulty, contact your distributor. Its always easier to check first than redoing it later.                           

Do’s and Don’ts 
1.    Secure the leg base to the bottom of the cupboard and don’t forget to place the leg base lip under the wall side of the cabinet to ensure the correct support.
2.    If a side kickboard is being fitted then turn the leg base so that the flat side is butting the side kickboard.  
3.    When positioning the cam, point the longer line to the hole in the side of the board where the dowel enters before pushing the dowel into the hole.  
4.    Do not hammer the dowels into the holes. Jiggle and twist by hand.
5.    Check for sawdust in the hole before pushing in the dowel or the cam.  
6.    Cover caps for the cams are provided only for visible cams under the wall units.   For units holding a very heavy weight (stone tops or pantry units) use a kickboard at the back as well as the front. 
7.    For pullout pantry mechanisms secure the unit to the wall. Use packing in the 23 mm gap if the unit is sitting off the wall to line up with the panel 600mm deep.  
8.    The floor units need not be fixed to the wall where there are more than 3 units.  
9.    Cut and fix the kickboards in place before attaching the kickboard cover. The extra width of the cover can be wrapped over the top of the kickboards.   Use a dab of silicone to attach the side kickboards to the legs (One leg cannot take 2 clips).  
10    .Do not cut  the plastic protection off the shrink wrapped door on the face. Lift the plastic and get the knife under it so you cut with the blade up or sideways otherwise you may cut the door finish.