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June 08 No.15 Splashback Update
Two new splashback alternatives have now become available for the handyperson to install...
October No.14 Handleless Doors
Finally there is a proper hinge and catch to replace the tip latch and push catch to make a handleless door open enough to get your fingers behind without breaking your nails....
August No. 13 Becoming a Kitchen designer as easy as DYOS
SmartPack Kitchens’ DYOS program gives renovators the ability to design, view in 3D and cost their kitchen or home office renovation. With SmartPack Kitchens’ new Design Your Own SmartPack (DYOS) software, renovators can point and click their way to kitchen and home office designs – seeing the results in 3D and getting an estimate of cabinetry costs – in their own home and without talking to a salesperson.
April No. 12 Kickboards- building on a solid base
The bases of cabinets are made in 3 ways: 1. plinth attached to the cabinets. 2. Legs attached to the cabinet. 3. Inset kickboards with the cabinet sides going to the floor. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type.
December No. 10 Timber benchtops in the kitchen
The can only warmth that timber benchtops bring to a kitchen can only be surpassed by the oven.....
February No.11 Soft Closing Mechanisms for Cabinet Doors and drawers.
The latest technology from Blum and Hettich has been the introduction of soft closing doors and self closing drawers.
November No.9 Flatpack installation hints and procedures.
Some flatpack cabinetsare easier to assemble and install than others but in each case if you follow a simple procedure, organise yourself and have the correct tools and good clean workspace.....
October No.8 Environmental issues in the kitchen
Even the manufacture of a kitchen cabinet can impact on our environment. If you have any environmental conscience then read this short article about how to choose better....
September No. 7 It's a question of Splashback
Above the benchtop and underneath the overhead cabinets is an area of exposed wall which needs to have a surface finish which is easily cleaned using standard non toxic household cleaners.
August No. 6 Door options made simple
Most kitchen companies will offer about five styles, each having a range of colours and finishes. How to choose is the question.
July No.5 Flat pack Wardrobes
Flatpack kitchens are now well publicised and popular. The same system of construction also applies to wardrobes....
No.4 June - Creating a temporary kitchen
Making preparations for a temporary kitchen well before you start...
No.3 May - Flat pack kits
Flat pack kits.......how difficult are they anyway? The question most often asked
April No. 2 Veneer types
Veneer boards are made in a number of different ways. The latest and most consistent in appearance is the restructured type compared to the natural veneer type. Both have a beautiful wood appearance.
March No. 1 Smartpack creates a new website
The new DYOS- Design your own smartpack program downloadable from this site ...
Friday, 10 November 2006
December No. 10 Timber benchtops in the kitchen
Timber benchtops in  the kitchen

The warmth that the timber benchtops brings to a kitchen can only be surpassed by the oven.Today it is possible to have a solid timber benchtop for between $120 to $350 per metre (600mm wide), which is not an unreasonable price for something that lasts a lifetime. Lacquering the benchtop will add to the cost.

Most benchtops are generally manufactured the same way,ie.finger jointed strips of timber approximately 35 x 35 in section and then laminated to one another to make up the width of the tops. The top is sold nin a raw state, edge finished and sanded,or completely polyurethaned and ready for installation. The price alsoi ncreases depending on the degree of finishing the customer prefers.

The main species "off the shelf" are:
1. Radiata Pine : (introduced from North America). A plantation timber that grows four to six times faster than the Eucalypt hardwoods and hence it is a cheap wood for benchtop construction. It has a yellow brown colour, usually a straight grain and fine texture. Approximately $120 per metre 600 wide.

2. Australian Ash: A medium sized hardward grown in coastal areas of northern NSW. Pale brown in colour with a pinkish tint,straight grain and relatively free of gum veins. Approximately $145 per metre (600mm wide)

3. Brushbox: A hardwood which grows on the edge of the rainforests from the central coast of NSW to Bowen in Queensland. Pinkish grey to rich reddish brown in colour and texture is fine and even. Approximately $300 per metre 600mm wide. This species is in short supply and the price has gone up significately in the last few years.

4. Tasmanian Oak: Also called Alpine Ash,occuring in cold climatic areas of Tasmania,eastern Victoria and south east NSW. It is a large hardwood (eucalypt species)with a pale pink and pale yellowish brown hue. Moderately coarse texture. Straight grain but sometimes wavy with gum veins. Approximately $170 per metre 600mm wide.

5. Blackwood: A medium sized hardwood (Acacia species) occuring in tablelands in South Australia and the eastern states of Austalia. The only areas of considerable commercial yield are the wetter districts of Tasmania. it is golden brown in colour and sometimes  with reddish streaks. The grain is usually straight but can vary. Approximately $300 per metre 600mm wide.

6. Jarrah: Jarrah is a rich dark red colour from the south west corner of Australia, very dense and heavy.

7.Bluegum: is a commonly occuring hardwood from the east coast of Australia,from Batemans Bay to Southern Queensland.
It is a dark pink to red brown colour with a straight slightly interlocked grain.

8. There are now a number of imported species of timber that are used for tops such as Merbau( now the best value timber top ,brown in colour ,tight grained) and others like Nyatoh( similar to Merbau). These two are prices around $120-150 per metre Canadian maple (very light yellow to white colour) and Celery top Pine ( whitish timber with a light brown grain running through it). These last two species from North America cost around $350 per metre.

Installation:
Joins for benchtops should be done on a full mitre so that the strips of timber meet end to end and not butt into the cross grain. Ab clear silicone can be put into the joint to stop any moisture entering the end grain. It should be noted at this point that any timber benchtop should be finished all over to seal all the timber surfaces not only the seen areas.
It is important to note that timber will always move even after it is completely sealed and the fixing of the top should allow for this. The top should be fixed down to the kitchen cabinet with a screw through the rail (the common construction of the Smartpack flatpack cabinets), which has a sloppy  hole enabling the top some movement. If the top is fixed too tightly with no movement allowed, this  could cause a split in either the laminated joins or the timber itself.
Before installation of a timber top it must be completely seasled using either a polyurethane or an appropriate urethane oil. The top needs to be coated completely to seal out moistute. The uneven moisture content of the 2 sides of the timber causes the bow or twist. we recommend four to six coats for polyurethane, two to three if using an oil.
Polyurethane is a fast drying clear finish. It is a high build rapid curing two part mixture giving a good protection to the timber while enhancing the appearance of the timber surface. It is available in do it yourself kits in matt, semi gloss and high gloss finishes. The urethane oil products is a blend of urethane fortified oils which give a low sheen finish to untreated wood surfaces. Both products are touch dry in about one and a half hours and should be resanded before the next coat is applied. Both products are resistant to most chemicals and food stains which makes the timber benchtop a practical solution for kitchens.

Maintenance:
Timber benchtops like floors wear in high traffic areas and should be recoated every 2 to 3 years. One should not let the wear go through the protective coating of the top and one must recoat before the timber surface is exposed. A light sand and recoat will make the top look like new. If the coating is worn through to the timber then the top should be resanded back to raw wood and coated as if  it was a new top.